Saturday 3 July 2010

Too much lobster

Paul has kindly offered to give me a rest from blog writing today, so this is a guest post by Paul.....

Day 9 on Thursday was a short day, partly because when we got to Bath we missed a turning to Popham Beach State Park, good old GPS / sat nav, and ended up at our evening destination at lunch time! We decided to check the place out having spotted a little cafe on the edge of the bridge that took us to the Bailey Island Motel. We had a fresh crab sandwich and mused about cancelling the accommodation because the place was remote and dead! We then spotted Cooks Lobster House Restaurant. We asked if it was any good and the girl at the cafe said it was dreadful, mmm local politics maybe, so we went to check it out ourselves, had a beer, staff were friendly and the menu looked fine. So at 2pm we checked in to our motel after all and could see that it was a short walk across the beach back to Cooks for supper..

Gary had a lot to catch up on for the blog and I was knackered after a poor night’s sleep. I had woken the night before very cold as the temperatures had dropped. We have noticed that come 4pm by the coast the temperature can really become quite cold. So Gary updated the blog and I slept! Come 7pm we headed off the Cooks. Had a great meal “surf and turf” which was steak and 4 lobster tails and yes, I left a lobster tail!!! I had had enough lobster.

Bailey Island Motel was actually better than we had thought when we arrived. Nice welcome from Connie, the situation was idyllic and Cooks was a busy and fun place, well up until about 9pm when we were as seemed to be the norm in Maine the last people standing.


























































The next morning we had full view of the bridge which was being re-furbished, fascinating as it was a honeycomb of rocks which allowed the sea to flow as the tides changed. We ate breakfast overlooking the bay in warm sunshine, a blueberry muffin and a coffee. So overall if you want peace and tranquillity and one restaurant then Bailey Island not a bad place to visit after all.









































Today, Friday was a big day for me. We were going to meet Frank and Margaret McDonald. Beforehand we went to Portland to a locksmith called Lock, Stock and Barrel!, to see if they could release the wrong key from the wrong lock from Gary’s bike. They could!! But alas the key and lock are now useless!

Frank McDonald was at Cambridge with my father and since my Father’s stroke about 7 years ago, I had been corresponding with Frank but in all these years had never met him. I always remembered my father talking about Frank but they had lost contact. I joined a big computer reseller about 15, or maybe longer years, ago. Our IBM account manger was a guy called Neil McDonald. To cut a long story short we used the IBM global email network to track Frank down as I know he worked for IBM. This was in the days when no-one had private email so quite a cool thing to be able to do. Frank and Dad got back in touch and Dad visited the McDonalds in Portsmouth Maine on several occasions and finally I got to meet Frank too!! How cool is that. We had a great meeting and lunch and talked about Dad and Frank’s time at Cambridge in 1946 and saw the picture of the May Ball in I think 1947 and could see Frank and Dad. There is still a story that I haven’t quite got to the bottom of but it involves women, a drainpipe and Gonville and Caius College one late evening. It was mentioned in passing but the truth alas I think will never come out. We took some pictures and when in next visit Dad in Tenby in a few weeks time I will be able to share the visit and the pictures. A great privilege to finally meet Frank and I think Gary and I added some street cred for them as we rode off on our bikes and waved at the neighbours!! Frank keep those email jokes coming! And thank you Gary for allowing me to indulge myself.


























We arrived about 7pm local time in Portsmouth, a little further and slower journey than anticipated south on Route but rush hour and public holiday weekend maybe not surprising!. Portsmouth New Hampshire in the 17th century was known as Strawberry Bank and is an old trading hub for this part of the US. We booked in to the Strawberry Inn Guest House, not the warmest welcome we have had so far. The guest house is a little run down but never the less comfortable and we could walk on to town. This was a pre-requisite. Portsmouth is a lively cool town and was full of people out and ready for the 4th July celebrations.. We walked in to town, dinner in an Italian (no more lobster thanks!) and a couple of beers, one of which was in an Irish Bar. For those of you that don’t know I think that the Boston USA area does the best Guinness outside of Ireland and the Toucan in Soho Square London and it was also pretty good in Portsmouth tonight. A good place to stay and visit.















































This has been a great road trip and Gary, thank you for letting me join you and the work you have done planning the route. There is no doubt that a motor bike is a great way to explore a country.

So off to Boston and to prepare to re-claim this great country for England!

Thursday 1 July 2010

Maine at its Best (and broken sunglasses, and scraped cameras....)

Day 7, Tuesday, was a long day of 228 miles riding the slow coast roads of Maine.

We stayed the previous night at the Inn on the Harbor, in Stonington. It really is right on the harbour....









































Even though it was misty early in the morning, the scenery was beautiful. The lobster fishermen certainly do start early around here, as the first boats went out at around 4am.

I tried the strangest toast I think I have ever seen - Egg, Bacon and Cheese bread, toasted. It was delicious....





















I went past the 1,000 mile mark on the tour today. I have decided to stop at exactly every 1,000 miles and take a photo looking forward on the road. Then at the end of the tour compare them to see how the scenery looked at each 1,000 mile point and how it has changed across the different states. So, here is the first 1,000 mile picture, taken in Maine....






















The previous day, we had somehow both missed the turn for Arcadia National Park. Wedidn’t want to miss this, so today we back-tracked and toured the park. I understand that you have to pay an entrance fee at each National Park in the US, so I opted for the year-long “America The Beautiful” pass that will allow me access into any National Park on my tour. This works out much cheaper than paying for every entrance fee to each park I will go to. As this was the first National Park on the tour, out came the video cameras....






The first part of the ride in the park took us up Cadillac Mountain, which is not very high and the views from the top were shrouded by mist, buit it did give Paul and I the chance to ride on some twisty roads, which is always good! We went to Sand Beach and climbed rocks ....














































For many of the areas to see in Arcadia National Park you really need to park up and walk. This means it isn’t a great place to ride a bike – most of us on motorbikes like to enjoy the views while riding, As Paul and I were fitting this park in to an already busy day (adding about 3 extra hours riding) we didn’t stop and walk around much.

Next was a real treat that we were not expecting. I knew there was a new bridge recently built over the Penobscot River. The old Waldo-Hancock bridge was suffering from considerable corrosion and the new bridge was built right next to the old one. Both the old and new are both stunning bridges so we stopped to take some photos, including from the top of one of the towers where an observatory has been incorporated....




















































































































Did you notice in the photo looking down, our two motorbikes? I think that is a type of view that not many will have seen of their bikes!

We were making our way to our destination for that night and I suddenly realised I had dropped a pair of (really expensive!!!!) sunglasses off the bike. I had a good idea where they might be and we rode back to see if we could find them. The good news is we did find them!! But they had been run over and were crushed. I wasn’t best pleased at my stupid mistake. We made our way to the Ripples Inn in Rockland and had terrific dinner in the Lily Bistro on Main Street in Rockland, where we chatted to both the chef from the Italian restaurant down the street and the chef of the bistro we were in. The food was excellent.

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We had a leisurely start to Wednesday (day 8). Paul and I sat and chatted over breakfast with Sandie Dillon, the owner of the Ripples Inn in Rockland. Sandie was a pleasure to talk to and a terrific host of a fine Bed and Breakfast. Was laughed at her dog, a small terrier called Isabella Rossellini, after the actress daughter of Ingrid Bergman. The dog must have been one of the most laid back hounds I have ever seen. We both needed to get some writing done, so Sandie was happy that we stay for as long as we like. I can thoroughly recommend the Ripples Inn and here is a photo....
























Before we left Rockland we both got haircuts. I had been suffering with the heat and the subsequent itchy head, so I wanted a trim badly. Right next door is the local train station....
























Before we left Rockland, we took a walk around the harbor....















































Just south of Rockland in Maine, we found the what is possibly the highlight of the tour so far – The Owls Head Transport Museum, which is a stunning collections of cars, planes, wagons, bikes.... well worth a visit and if you are into vehicles (duh!) this is a must. The odd thing is that such a fantastic collection of vehicles is in such a remote place and not at all well known for a museum of its obviously quality. This should be world renowned. There are quite of few of them, but just take a look at the photos of some of the exhibits....

1935 Duesenburg Model J....























Packard....






















1911 Ford T Torpedo....













































1913 Scripps-Booth, V8 car with two main wheels and two stabilisers....






















1914 Rolls-Royce....





















1909 Bleriot XI (plane) and 1905 Panhard & Levassor Tourer (car)....













































Wells Fargo Stagecoach....




















Milk and Cream cart....






















1907 Cadillac Runaround....





















1999 Captain America Replica (for sale)....






















Wasp Major Pratt & Whitney Engine (see specs below)....












































In the afternoon we rode on fantastic roads, nearly all empty and just 2 lane, which were very easy to ride on. Great riding, in perfect riding weather with the sunlight coming through the trees. It was a perfact day to just enjoy the ride. We found a recycled art exhibition in a front yard, so we stopped and looked and took a few photos. The guys web address is www.recyclesculptor.com His work is all made from old metal and is well, interesting....














































































































































































As we were in the heart of lobster fishing country, we walked onto one of the piers and asked about lobsters, fishing, packing and just about everything else to do with lobsters....



































































































We visited the lighthouse at Permaquid Point. Stunning scenery....

















































































As I walked back to the bike, I liked the sun hitting my crash helmet....




















Then I did a really dumb thing. By mistake I tried to open my saddlebag lock with the wrong key, which then got stuck and try as we could, we were not able to remove it. So I no longer have an ignition key and we had to dismantle the saddlebag lock. Replacements are being sought!

We had dinner at The Boat House Bistro, in Boothbay, which is on 3 levels – we sat on the top roof level and had great tapas.

On the way back we found a bowling alley which was built in 1946 and upgraded in the 50’s to include automatic pins loading machines which eliminated the need for “pin boys”. The owner is 94 and still comes in every day. It is as if time has stood still in this place. Anyhow, we couldn’t resist and enjoyed our game of old-fashioned bowling with small balls....

Paul (a little blurred as he was moving so fast)....



























Yours truly....