Friday 24 September 2010

Can a Man Love Rock?

Water can create life.

Water can cause death.

Water is precious.

Water can cool you down.

Water can be fun.

Water can quench a thirst.

But who knew water could create something as beautiful as this, in rock....


























This is Antelope Canyon, near Page in Arizona. Located on Navajo land, this is a slot canyon formed mainly by flood water that wears away the soft sandstone and formed a corridor in the rock, that is lit from above by the sun. To give you an idea of scale, the width of the space at ground level is about 8 feet across, at the widest part.

I visited the canyon and simply fell in love with it. So yes, I think a man can love rock.

There is no need for words to help describe these pictures....



























































One last picture. All visitors to the canyon have to be accompanied by a guide. Out guide was taking a picture of this couple who were in our group, so instead of just standing and waiting, I took a picture of them as well. It is quite dark in the canyon and I had to keep the shutter open for a long exposure to get this next shot, but the woman moved her head too early and the result was a weird picture, as if her head was see-through....


























What a fantastic place.

Thursday 23 September 2010

Oops, Where is the Four Corners? Plus a little teaser....

Cortez was a definite turning point in the terrain. To the north are mountains with twisty roads that snake along canyons and follow the contours of the land, while to the south is desert with the occasional rock outcrop and very straight roads, where you can see ahead for miles. The contrast is very striking and this happens very quickly. I think this marks the start of the “desert” stage of my long ride.

Not far into my journey today, I went to see the Four Corners where the states of Arizona, Colorado, New Mexico and Utah meet. I meant to go there, but apparently, I didn’t.

Like many thousands of people before me, I went out into the desert and stood on the only point in the US where four states meet....













































The position of the Four Corners was determined in 1875 where surveying was as accurate as it is today. Probably due to the invention of GPS, it was discovered in April 2009 that the current marker is actually 1,807 feet to the east of where is should be (it was reported at the time to be 2.5 miles out of position, but this turned out to be false). So, whilst I did go the legally adopted position of the Four Corners, I didn’t go to the real intersection.

The monument is a little odd. As you approach it, you first see some flagpoles and a row of huts. Parking your bike carefully on the loose stones, you next see the huts are kiosks selling Native Indian jewellery and crafts and it becomes clear the four corners marker is in the circle of flagpoles. That is just about all that is there. I would have thought there might have been something else – maybe a building that shows something about the history of the four states or something similar. It seemed a bit bleak out there in the middle of nowhere.
































































The scenery took on the feeling of a large wide-open spaces with long distances between interesting features such as rock outcrops....




















I did take one gravel road towards the San Juan River, but I couldn’t get close enough to take a good photo. I did get a picture of my bike next to a rock cliff ....


























Soon I crossed the border into Arizona, the 26th state I have ridden in on this tour. The terrain was what I expected....







































In a town called Bluff, close to the Utah / Arizona border, I stopped to telephone Jackie and a bike rolled up next to me. “I didn’t expect to see an English number plate here” said the rider in an English west-country accent. The rider, Simon from Warminster was like me, on a long ride through the US. He started one day before me from Montague, Massachusetts and as at the point I met him, had done 10,241 miles! Of course we had a coffee and compared notes and road stories....


















Before we parted, we exchanged ideas about where each of us might go to. Simon was heading north where I had just come from and vice-versa. It was good to meet you Simon!

I did take pictures of Monument Valley, but I didn’t have much time to take many, so I am saving those I did take for after I have returned when I travel north again and when I have taken more photos. For now, here is just a teaser.... it was a fantastic place!....

Wednesday 22 September 2010

Bubble Bath Makes the Leading Ladies Smile Once More....

In the evening, I looked at my Leading Ladies and they were complaining. They were filthy dirty and badly needed a wash. Luckily therefore, I am carrying with me some basic cleaning gear, so I found their favourite bubble bath and gave them a much needed clean. Most motels / hotels will let you use their hosepipe and the plastic waste bins in the rooms make ideal buckets for the hot soapy water! Not only did the ladies want to be washed, but they also wanted to be dried and polished too. I must say they did look sparkling some two and a half hours later when I had finished.

As I was cleaning the bike, three other bikes arrived at the motel and, well you know how things are, bikers talk to other bikers and soon we had a group bike cleaning / chatting session going. The four bikes looked good lined up in the car park, clean and shiny once more!

These are the four people that arrived on the 3 bikes, this picture being taken in the morning, just before we departed the motel. So, meet Doug and Julie, Kevin, Mike from McKinney, Texas ....




















All that hard work cleaning the Leading Ladies was wasted the next day when it rained! It hadn’t rained for so long, the roads were very dirty and as soon as the rain fell, the dirty water was sprayed up from my front wheel and other vehicles, so now the bike needs doing again! It will have to wait a few days, for I just don’t feel like doing it just yet.

When I started riding today I went first to the base of Cascade Falls in Ouray. At this time of year the falls are just a trickle but the height is tall enough to make seeing them at any time of year worthwhile. A warning though – like many minor roads in small towns in Colorado, the one to get to the falls is gravel, but riding to the falls is okay, albeit a short way uphill. Here are the falls....


























The trouble is, as I discovered a few days ago, riding up steep gravel roads is relatively easy, but coming down them is not. I used my new-found technique of turning off the engine and coasting down whilst holding the clutch in, letting out the clutch when I needed to slow down and therefore using the engine braking to slow down without fear of locking a wheel. I have found the worst thing to do is to use the front brake in these circumstances as this does lock the front wheel on the loose gravel. This was the gravel road leading away from the falls....


























Heading west out of the town, I saw Ouray hot springs. I had considered going there the previous evening and I am glad I didn’t – they looked too utilitarian for my taste....


























I did notice the large fish pond in the foreground and there are many huge fish in there. Maybe it has something to do with the water and its minerals....




















The road between Ridgeway and Placerville and then south is a good one, but I must admit, I think I have too much of a good thing. I can only take so much of great looking mountain scenery and while if I came across this as my first Colorado mountain scene, I would think it wonderful, after 3 weeks of magnificent peaks, I had seen enough....




















On John and Diana’s recommendation, I went to see Log Hill, which has a terrific road leads to golf course with a great view on the way up. They also told me to look out for a timber fence running alongside the main road and sure enough I saw it. It looks new and goes on for miles, surrounding what I later found out was a 15,000 acre ranch. Here is the entrance to the ranch....




















The Double RL stands for a certain Ralph Lauren. I am certainly pleased to see that some of the money I have spent on his shirts has been invested wisely!

I had decided to go to Telluride for lunch, but I wish I hadn’t bothered. This was approaching the town....




















This is the main street through the town....




















Now, bearing in mind this is a tiny town in the mountains, no doubt wanting the business that passing visitors can offer, I was amazed to discover that to park on the main road in the town, you had to pay. I really couldn’t be bothered to find out how to pay and do whatever I needed to help this obviously poor struggling town to keep its financial head above water. I feel sorry for the businesses in Telluride, having to put up with some stupid local politician that thinks it is important to collect money to park a car or motorbike. I went somewhere else for lunch!

Nearby, I stopped for gas and noticed some lovely cars being unloaded from a covered truck. I waited while this old Alpha Romeo was taken out from the back....







































I stood admiring this beauty and noticed a gentleman standing nearby and I said something like “That is a lovely car”. He looked at me as if I was something he just stepped in and he didn’t respond, choosing instead to say to the guys unloading the vehicles in a loud voice “Will you please hurry and unload my car after George’s”. I am careful not to swear on my blog, but this guy was a wanker. I have met very few impolite people on my tour, but this guy goes on the top of my list as Arse Number 1.

I didn’t wait to see his car unloaded. I hope they dropped it.

I left Telluride vowing never to return!

Here are a few last Colorado mountain pictures. The weather wasn’t great and it rained a coup[le of times, but still not enough for me to stop and put on my waterproofs....


























































On the road towards Cortez, I hit the 13,000 mile point on my tour just south of Dolores, and here is the now customary photo of the ‘000 mile point...




















Wow, 13,000 miles!

I have discovered that I have made a major misjudgement regarding places to stay. Each evening, at around 4 or 5 o’clock, I begin to look for somewhere to stay that night. It has been so easy to find motels or hotels that I like the look of when I arrive in a town and these places have always had a room available, that I got a little complacent about this, being sure I could find a bed for the night just about anywhere. I was wrong! When I arrived in Cortez, it occurred to me that I really should look at what accommodation might be available in Monument Valley and make a reservation, just in case they got busy each day as that evenings travellers began to arrive. I telephone the hotel I wanted to stay at, but to my disappointment, it was full. I telephoned all of the hotels in Bluff, the next nearest town and they too were all full. I looked at what was available for miles around – nothing! With the help of Jackie my wife, the nearest place we could find and book was in Page. Wait for it, that is 121 miles away!!

I also checked the Hotel I wanted us to stay at in the Grand Canyon – the only rooms available were on different nights than I wanted and were very expensive! This lack of hotels / motels would need some serious re-arrangement of my tour plans for Arizona! Instead of going to Monument Valley now, I will go later when hotel rooms are available – I have booked one already!

I went to bed in Cortez slightly annoyed with myself, that I was having to change my route just because I hadn’t thought about booking hotel rooms in busy areas. On this tour, good days are common. This was not one of them!

Tuesday 21 September 2010

Riding the Million Dollar Highway

On this day, I was going to ride one of the roads that many people had said I should – the Million Dollar Highway.

I have now got quite used to meeting other bikers and talking to them and invariably, suggestions abound and ideas are exchanged about where to ride. I love this type of chat and occasionally a real gem of a suggestions comes my way. This one particular road, US Highway 552, had been suggested to me as much as any other road, so I was eagerly anticipating what it had to offer.

I had arranged to ride the first part of the road, from Durango to Silverton with my new friends, John and Diana and we took off riding north at 10 o’clock in the morning....


























They lead the first part of the way, showing me a back-road that I didn’t know of, that lead to a bridge over a river that I had flagged in my gps / sat nav as maybe worthwhile seeing. This next picture is taken from Bakers Bridge over-looking the Animas River. For those of you who have seen the film “Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid” you might be interested to know it was here that the final scene showing the two outlaws jumping off a cliff was filmed. This is the cliff....




















Of course in the actual film scene, the cliff was made to look much deeper!

John and Diana then lead to me Haviland Lake, where we saw a terrific reflection of the mountains behind....
















As we rode further north, the scenery became more spectacular.... it is a shame photographs never seem to do mountains justice. Believe me, these were magnificent way beyond what these pictures show....





































Soon we arrived at Silverton, a town of just 531 people (2000) and I am told it is so-called because during it mining peak, there was silver-by-the-ton. Today it mainly caters for the tourists (like me) that ride the Durango to Silverton steam train. We stopped to look down at the town from the highway....




















Silverton was lovely when we were there on a warm sunny day. I can’t imagine what the town must be like in the winter with its 300+ inches of snow that falls each year. We had drinks in a bar and I bought a couple of t-shirts for my sons. At this point I said my farewells to John and Diana as they needed to get back to Durango - it was good riding with you!

The main part of the Million Dollar Highway is north from Silverton to Ouray, a distance of just 23 miles. I have heard two different reasons about why it has its name. It is either because it cost a million dollars a mile to build, or because the fill they used to make up the road has traces of gold and silver contained within it. Whichever is true, it is still a great name for a road.

The road itself is a terrific ride, but you need to have nerves of steel along some parts as there are steep drop-offs and no guard rails. In places the road hugs the side of a steep slope of a mountain and in others, it has great bends which are ideal for motorcycling. I made a video and that is near the end of this post, but first here are a few photos. There are not many pictures of the parts with steep drop-offs as generally these do not have a shoulder to stop on to take pictures. Here is what I did manage to take and some of these were shot on the move....

A nice sweeping bend....




















You can see the road cut into the side of the mountain....




















Mountain views, lovely bends and yellow Aspens trees moving into autumn. What a combination!....



















































































I like this shot of the hairpin bend....




















Another tight bend....




















The changing colours of the trees make for a splendid background to the road....













































































In one spot that is obviously susceptible to avalanches, or falling rocks, a special tunnel has been constructed in order that the road can be kept open. This is taking inside that tunnel....





















One of the parts of the road you need to pay particular attention on....





















Just before arriving in Ouray, there is a place you can stop and overlook the town....




















Main Street in Ouray, with its shops, bars and restaurants. I tried all three!....




















Here is the video of riding the Million Dollar Highway.... I hope you enjoy the ride....



Another one of the great roads Colorado has to offer! It felt good to ride this road, so I turned around and rode it again – twice on the first day to make the video and twice again the next day to go back to take the photos!

When I checked in at the motel for the night I decided to wash the bike and I met a guy called Nick, a Patent Lawyer, from the next town, called Gerrards Cross, next to where I used to live on the west side of London. It can be a small world..... Nick wondered why I was cleaning my bike when it already looked so clean to him. I explained it was about as dirty as it has ever been and the Leading Ladies didn’t like it.....