Thursday, 2 September 2010

The Independence of Aspen

Of course I had heard of Aspen and despite the fact that it truly is world famous, I didn’t see one sign proclaiming it so.

Almost all the way from Glenwood Springs to Aspen, I and a gaggle of other vehicles all drove at the speed limit, carefully observing all the laws of the road. This sudden observance of the law by all was caused by the local Sheriff, driving in the left lane at exactly the speed limit and not one person dared to overtake in the right lane. Not that I personally wanted to go any faster today – it was a pleasant ride with plenty to look at along the way.

I had seen on the map there was a long and winding road (wasn’t that a song?) that started immediately before I was to reach Aspen called Castle Creek Road that heads almost due south. It wasn’t on my route but I decided to give it a try anyway.

I smiled as I saw this sign....



But wait a minute, did that mean the road was twisty, or suffered from high wind? One would be good, the other not! I didn’t need to have worried for within a minute or so, I knew what message the sign was meant to give. Twisty! Rising slowly, the road starts at 7,900 feet (2410m) near Aspen up to just under 10,000 feet (3000m) before the road runs out 12 miles later. It was a fun ride, shared with no cars but quite a few cyclists whom I take my hat off to – that was a long rising road and their fitness was not in question. I turned around and rode back and at one stage I had a hard job to keep pace with a Kamikaze cyclist who was riding so fast down the mountain that he must have had a really good reason to get there that quickly. I pondered this for a while - a mistress or lunch was my conclusion. It was fascinating to see him lean over into the bends and I was amazed his marrow tyres (US = tires) gave so much grip. Eventually I found a straight piece of road and got passed him, probably only arriving in Aspen just before he did. I didn’t see his mistress, but I did look for somewhere to eat.

I didn’t know what to expect of Aspen. I had stopped on the way at the nearby Snowmass Ski Resort and took an instant dislike to it. The place was not at all welcoming and I couldn’t do as I usually prefer and ride around first to get a feel of the place before parking, as the only option they give you is to park some distance away and get a bus into the centre or park in a multi-storey car park first and then walk. I chose to do neither and decided Snowmass was not for me.

So, I rode into the nearby Aspen hoping it would be the same. I need not have worried for it was a grid of small tree lined streets, with a lot of people around, welcoming shops and restaurants and the best thing of all, loads of dedicated and free motorcycle parking bays. Cars had to pay to park. Smiles. Bobskoot would like this!

I took my camera for a walk and was rewarded with some nice pictures of the centre of the place....





















































I liked Aspen. I had lunch there (a delicious Salmon burger) and afterwards I strolled around the pedestrianised centre. It seemed a happy place with kids playing, people sitting outside and eating and generally it felt very relaxed. I liked this water-feature....













































And I laughed when I saw this really cool chopper styled bicycle with it’s ape hanger bars....



















The next corner I turned I saw this wonderful Chevy Corvette. Drool.....



















I love the front grille....



















I put my camera away and got back on my bike and headed out of Aspen, eagerly anticipating Independence Pass which was just up the road.

I was disappointed.

The road up to the pass looked fantastic on the map. It looked like mile upon mile of sweeping bends rising to 12,000 feet. I could imagine the joy of riding such a road with great views, but it wasn’t like that. The road was very narrow, often just one lane to be shared in both directions and the view was non-existent, spoiled by tightly spaced trees. Sure, it was a good ride, but not the great one I had anticipated.

I did stop at the summit....





















The views looking down were pretty good....







































I did see this couple on their Road King. I laughed at the dog in the bag on the back....





















On the way back down the mountain the other side of the pass, I stopped at Twin Lakes for a picture....



























I stopped for the night in Leadville, a small un-distinguished town that I heard once had 60,000 people living there and In the late 1800s, Leadville was the second most populous city in Colorado, after Denver. At 10,200 feet it is the highest incorporated city in the United States.

Now a shadow of its former grandeur, I did manage to find somewhere to stay and I ate at the only place in town that served food after 6pm.

The hotel is, err, odd. The Delaware
Hotel is a sort of a cross between a hotel and a museum, that sells mainly old furniture and clothes. I walked into the lobby to see row upon row of racks of clothes for sale and I wondered if I had gone into the wrong doorway. After quickly looking around I saw a sign pointing to the well hidden hotel registration desk and checked in. A very unusual place indeed!.....

The hotel sign....



























The lobby....





















An upstairs corridor....





















I did manage to find a great saloon though. Built in 1879, the Silver Dollar Saloon is a real piece of history. It looks as if it has hardly changed over the years.... (except the cars parked outside the fron)....



























Here is the back room....





















The barman told me the mirror behind the bar was still the original, now 131 years old – remarkable!

Tuesday, 31 August 2010

The Wrong Road, Glenwood Springs and Ghostly Golfers....

Now I feel silly.

A few posts ago I mentioned I had been riding on I-70 and I thought this was the Million Dollar Highway, but silly me, it isn’t! Okay, I am a foreigner in a land full of roads, so if I get the occasional one wrong, then that’s ok!

Anyway, I did ride on I-70 that runs east-west through Colorado. I only did a short section either side of Glenwood Springs and considering it is an Interstate, I liked this one. I had read somewhere during my route planning that this section was impressive, so I rode it. I even un-necessarily rode passed Glenwood Springs just to see what it was like, turned around and came back again. I took a few shots of this road with my point and shoot camera as I rode along, so the pictures are not good, plus it was cloudy....




























































































Arriving in Glenwood Springs, I found the Chamber of Commerce and asked about where to stay – I was directed to the Glenwood Hot Springs Resort, which has the spring and hot pools as part of its complex. The hot springs has quite a history with people using it as a pool since 1880 and even before that by the Ute Indians....




















I went and sampled it’s delights , which were, well delightful. The main “rejuvenating pool” is maintained at 104F / 40C and smells of sulphur. I am really sceptical about alternative medicines and the same goes for things like hot springs, but I have to say, I did feel better after being in their a while. My back has been playing up for the past few days and I am sure the water did it some good.

Walking around the city of Glenwood I saw this dog sitting in the entrance to a shoe shop. He looked splendid as if he was guarding the doorway. I do like Labradors and this one was no exception. They just look so happy as you walk up to them to give them a stroke. Look carefully at the picture and see the door-stops to the shop....


























I went to see a chiropractor to see if the pain in my back could be made to go away. I felt a bit pummelled after the session, but I think it did some good. I asked the chiropractor, Anna, if she thought the hot pools actually did any good medically and she was convinced they do. She used them a lot when she first moved to Glenwood Springs. Anna had a her dog with her at work, something I think is a great idea. Anna likes blue-grass music and goes to concerts often and she enjoys singing. After being told that her dog, Kayla, joins in with the singing, I had to get the two of them to show me. Luckily I had my camera with me.... here are the two of them singing....


























I saw this .... I wonder if you can tell what it is....

















This is a bigger picture....




















That is some rust!

I went for a walk after dark and took my camera. Here are the springs at night. I was quite pleased with this picture....


















Next door to the springs is a mini-golf place that is illuminated and open at night. I took this picture of some ghostly golfers....


















Glenwood Springs seems like a fun town with lots to do locally. I imagine one could easily spend a week here and keep busy every day.

First A Dilemma, then the Colorado National Monument....

It was a dilemma.

The road was wonderfully twisty. The sort of road you don’t ride very often. There was another bike pushing up behind me, tempting me to keep riding.

Or should I stop and take pictures of the wonderful mountains I was riding through.

This was the road....



















I cranked the throttle open a bit more. The bike behind me dropped back a bit. I leaned left, then right, hard on the brakes, then a hairpin, throttle wide open as I came out of the bend and rode hard. The bike behind me was still there. Close. I could almost see the smile on the riders face in my mirrors.

I really should stop. That view that just rushed by was spectacular. Too late!

But just look at this road! I kept going. The other bike and I were having great fun. Almost like playing tag.

I couldn’t stop now. I had to keep riding. We were both riding hard and it was fantastic!

I rode on, up the mountain, over the pass and down the other side.

We slowed down coming into Loma. The other bike pulled alongside as we rode. His face was beaming and he was giving me the thumbs up. He obviously enjoyed it as well. But wait – he had a pillion! He was obviously a good rider to do what we had just done, two-up!

I pulled over to get a coffee and to let my pulse slow down a little. The other bike pulled into the gas station as well. I had just ridden my first Colorado Pass! At speed. Almost no cars about. What great fun!

The other rider, Bill and his wife Jo Ann came over and said hello. They were from Omaha, Nebraska. Smiles all round....





















Standing there in the gas station, I realised I would have to go back and take pictures.... It was 34 miles in each direction, but it would be worth it. I said my farewells to Bill and Jo Ann and set out back along the road I had just ridden.... Here are the photos I took....

The long road back to the mountains....





















Getting nearer....





















The Leading Ladies among the foothills....





















Enlarge this photo by clicking on it to see the road going through Douglas Pass....



















I had just ridden down from up here.... wow.... see the yellow arrow,,,,



















If this is what Colorado was going to be like, then I might be here some time!

I didn’t really know what to expect, but I then went to the nearby Colorado National Monument. This was a late addition to my route, but I am really glad I added it. It is one of those places that is understated and I hadn’t heard of before I was nearly finishing my tour planning.

As I rode up to the park entry point, it seemed that I wasn’t going to be able to see the monument on this day, as a huge sign proclaimed the park to be closed today. But then the sign scrolled round and the next screen said... until 2pm. Well, considering it was now 1.50pm, I didn’t have long to wait. In fact, as I rode to the gate, the park magically re-opened early, just in time for my arrival.

I pulled over and fixed my GoPro camera to the bike to film the ride in the “Monument” as it is known locally. This is the result..... enjoy the video.....



So, the video will have given you a taster of the views. Here are the photos I took....

Note the road in the bottom of this canyon in the first photo. I had just ridden on that road on the ride up to the top.....



















The erosion carves such dramatic shapes and forms canyons that would be great to explore on foot if there was time.

I will let the pictures speak for themselves. Another fantastic place to visit and ride through....













































































































































































I was tired at the end of this day and I stayed at a motel with a great name – the “Rusty Cannon”, in Rifle. I rode some of the way on I-70. More about that road tomorrow!

Sunday, 29 August 2010

America, It’s Just Not Fair....

Yesterday I saw some spectacular sights. Today was even better!

It’s just not fair that America has all of these great places. Why can’t they be spread around more evenly so other countries get some as well.

In the past two days I have seen the Flaming Gorge Recreation Area and Colorado National Monument. If we had just one of these in the UK, then that would be fairer, but oh no! America also has Yellowstone, the Grand Canyon, Arches national Park, Bryce, Zion, the Tetons, and the list goes on.

That of course is very tongue-in-cheek, but seriously, we have nothing like these places in most of Europe, so to the people of the USA I say you are very lucky to have them. When I was riding today through parts of Colorado, I had to pinch myself to keep looking at what I was seeing with fresh eyes. I rode along I-70, the Million Dollar Highway and I was amazed. What a road! What scenery! It goes on for so long that even I, seeing it for the first time, became far too accustomed to its majesty because there is so much of it.

Talking of roads, I made a video of riding through the Flaming Gorge and part of Dinosaur National Park.... I hope you enjoy it....



When riding on these roads, I find it a challenge to keep concentrating on the road. The scenery is calling me to divert my eyes and look around me....





















Look at this road down in the valley....





















I am not sure, but I imagine the Gorge gets its name from the red rocks...



















Looking down into part of the gorge....



















How about this for a hairpin bend!....



















How does this tree survive?....



























More terrific views looking down into the gorge. This view was hard to find and meant climbing over some rocks....







































I visited Flaming Gorge Dam and the engineer in me just had to go on the tour. I was told that before 9/11 anybody could tour the dam, including the inside of the turbine halls, the tunnels and anywhere else, on their own. I imagine that the dam is now considered a high risk threat and so there is much tighter security now, including a full time police officer that uses a metal detector to scan all visitors. Personally, I have no problem with such measures and indeed living in London, I am very used to such necessities of everyday life.

Here is the dam. It is 425 foot / 130m tall and the water behind the dam took 12 years to fill to its full working level....





















It is an impressive structure.... it took 6 years to build....



























This is looking down from the top of the dam on the downstream side....



























Looking down the lift (US = elevator) shaft, 425 feet!.... (sorry Dan)....





















In the turbine hall. There are three 10 foot diameter turbines....





















This is Dinosaur National Park....





























































Blue Mountain, where a lot of para-sailing is done, but not on the day I was there....





















I have been looking forward to seeing Colorado for about a year....



























I liked the shape of this wooden fence....



















I am saving todays pictures and video of Colorado for my next post....