Tuesday, 21 September 2010

Riding the Million Dollar Highway

On this day, I was going to ride one of the roads that many people had said I should – the Million Dollar Highway.

I have now got quite used to meeting other bikers and talking to them and invariably, suggestions abound and ideas are exchanged about where to ride. I love this type of chat and occasionally a real gem of a suggestions comes my way. This one particular road, US Highway 552, had been suggested to me as much as any other road, so I was eagerly anticipating what it had to offer.

I had arranged to ride the first part of the road, from Durango to Silverton with my new friends, John and Diana and we took off riding north at 10 o’clock in the morning....


























They lead the first part of the way, showing me a back-road that I didn’t know of, that lead to a bridge over a river that I had flagged in my gps / sat nav as maybe worthwhile seeing. This next picture is taken from Bakers Bridge over-looking the Animas River. For those of you who have seen the film “Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid” you might be interested to know it was here that the final scene showing the two outlaws jumping off a cliff was filmed. This is the cliff....




















Of course in the actual film scene, the cliff was made to look much deeper!

John and Diana then lead to me Haviland Lake, where we saw a terrific reflection of the mountains behind....
















As we rode further north, the scenery became more spectacular.... it is a shame photographs never seem to do mountains justice. Believe me, these were magnificent way beyond what these pictures show....





































Soon we arrived at Silverton, a town of just 531 people (2000) and I am told it is so-called because during it mining peak, there was silver-by-the-ton. Today it mainly caters for the tourists (like me) that ride the Durango to Silverton steam train. We stopped to look down at the town from the highway....




















Silverton was lovely when we were there on a warm sunny day. I can’t imagine what the town must be like in the winter with its 300+ inches of snow that falls each year. We had drinks in a bar and I bought a couple of t-shirts for my sons. At this point I said my farewells to John and Diana as they needed to get back to Durango - it was good riding with you!

The main part of the Million Dollar Highway is north from Silverton to Ouray, a distance of just 23 miles. I have heard two different reasons about why it has its name. It is either because it cost a million dollars a mile to build, or because the fill they used to make up the road has traces of gold and silver contained within it. Whichever is true, it is still a great name for a road.

The road itself is a terrific ride, but you need to have nerves of steel along some parts as there are steep drop-offs and no guard rails. In places the road hugs the side of a steep slope of a mountain and in others, it has great bends which are ideal for motorcycling. I made a video and that is near the end of this post, but first here are a few photos. There are not many pictures of the parts with steep drop-offs as generally these do not have a shoulder to stop on to take pictures. Here is what I did manage to take and some of these were shot on the move....

A nice sweeping bend....




















You can see the road cut into the side of the mountain....




















Mountain views, lovely bends and yellow Aspens trees moving into autumn. What a combination!....



















































































I like this shot of the hairpin bend....




















Another tight bend....




















The changing colours of the trees make for a splendid background to the road....













































































In one spot that is obviously susceptible to avalanches, or falling rocks, a special tunnel has been constructed in order that the road can be kept open. This is taking inside that tunnel....





















One of the parts of the road you need to pay particular attention on....





















Just before arriving in Ouray, there is a place you can stop and overlook the town....




















Main Street in Ouray, with its shops, bars and restaurants. I tried all three!....




















Here is the video of riding the Million Dollar Highway.... I hope you enjoy the ride....



Another one of the great roads Colorado has to offer! It felt good to ride this road, so I turned around and rode it again – twice on the first day to make the video and twice again the next day to go back to take the photos!

When I checked in at the motel for the night I decided to wash the bike and I met a guy called Nick, a Patent Lawyer, from the next town, called Gerrards Cross, next to where I used to live on the west side of London. It can be a small world..... Nick wondered why I was cleaning my bike when it already looked so clean to him. I explained it was about as dirty as it has ever been and the Leading Ladies didn’t like it.....

Sunday, 19 September 2010

When in Durango, Ride the Train

In Europe, “When in Rome, do as the Romans do” is a popular saying. I can equally think of an appropriate saying for Durango. “When in Durango, ride the train”, which is just what I did while I was here.

I had heard of the Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad when I was planning my tour back in London and it was something I really wanted to do. I booked a seat in an open carriage with no windows, to take full advantage of the photo opportunities this train ride presented.

Construction work on the railroad started in the autumn of 1881 and the trains started running, unbelievably, all the way to Silverton which is about 45 miles, in July the following year. The railroad was originally built to transport gold and silver ore from the mountains around Silverton down to Durango, but the line soon attracted passengers who enjoyed the journey through this rugged terrain.

The tracks follow the route of the Animas River and at times the scenery is dramatic and picturesque. The track rises some 2800 feet / 850 meters along its length. I enjoyed the journey – in both directions – greatly. I met and sat next to George and Carolyn, a couple originally from Texas, but who now live in Pagosa Springs. They were very good company indeed for the 9 hour round trip.

The railroad uses 7 steam engines. At the moment two are being overhauled and the remaining 5 share the workload of hauling the trains from Durango to Silverton each day and back again. Some of these locomotives date back to the 1800’s and are in remarkable condition. I asked if they kept the fires in the boilers burning overnight and the answer was yes - they have an engine watchman working overnight to ensure the fires do not go out, because it takes 6 hours to restart them and to get the engines hot enough to make steam!

One of the locomotives leaving Durango....


















The train I was on, climbing along the edge of one of the canyons....



































There are tremendous views to be seen along the route....




























































Another of the sections where the track rises up a steep incline. The locomotive needs to work hard going up here....


















In places, there is not much clearance between the train cars and the rocks....


























In the open cars, people generally stand so they can look forward. At the end of a 7 hour journey, my legs were complaining about this!.....


















The best views of the train are when it is rounding a bend....


























What a great place to build a railroad....
















This is the town of Silverton in the San Juan mountains. It is not a big place, but it caters well for the train passengers....









































I saw this sign in a shop window which I am sure one of my readers will like....


















The train turns around while the passengers are on a two-hour break for lunch. I happened to notice the train reversing into the station area. The conductor uses his hat to signal to the train driver / engineer when to stop reversing....


























It was a busy day with so many passengers, they used two trains. Here are the two locomotives looking splendid and ready for their task. There is something very powerful about steam engines.....













































I returned early from lunch and sneaked a look at the engine, as seen by the driver.... this looks complicated!....


























One of the trains departing back towards Durango....

















One of the fine views on the way back down....


























The engines have to work much less hard on the way back down, but they maintain a full head of steam for the brakes....


















The tracks pass over the river about 3 times. This is one of the bridges....


















This is the engine “letting off steam”.... to release excess pressure....


























The sun shining through the smoke and steam....


















I had a great day on the train! I did learn that taking photos from a moving train is not easy. I took many and discarded most!

Saturday, 18 September 2010

Durango and its People

Before I left Pagosa Springs there was something I needed to do. The previous evening I had gone to a restaurant / bar called Kips on the recommendation of the receptionist at the hotel I was staying at. I sat at the bar and within a few minutes a guy came and sat next to me with a familiar accent. He was from Wales (just to the west of England) and his name was Bob. With a friend called Doug, who arrived slightly later, the two of them had rented bikes in Tuscon and had been riding around the area.

Now, when I say they had rented bikes, these were a little different from most rentals you see. Bob was on a 1981 Honda Gold Wing and Doug was riding a 1981 Honda CB900. When they picked these up “through somebody they knew”, they had to spend a week fixing them up the bikes so they could ride them!

We had a fun time at the bar comparing notes and they had been to some of the areas I was about to ride to myself. I hadn’t taken my camera with me to the bar, so I had arranged to meet them the next morning for a photo. Here are the two of them on their ancient bikes....

Doug on his rented CB900....


















Bob on the Gold Wing of the same year....


















Here are the two of them as they rode off.....



















































It was good to meet them and engaged in some friendly banter!

My destination for today was not very far – just about 70 miles west to Durango. On the way I passed by Chimney Rock....




















As it was only a short ride today, I was going to arrive early and just on the outskirts of the town I saw a Harley-Davidson dealership, so I went and had a look. They had a back-rest for my bike, so I decided to go ahead and get one. They were able to fit this using my existing seat so it didn’t cost as much as I thought it would. Due to the limited tools I am carrying, I had then fit it and so I had to hang around for an hour or so while they did that....




















The staff in this dealership were very friendly and after helping myself to a cup of their coffee and looking at what they had for sale, I got chatting to the staff about hotels in Durango. They suggested the Strater Hotel was very good and even telephoned the hotel for me and negotiated a price for the only available room and got me their special H-D corporate discount, which was quite a saving considering I was going to be there for 3 nights! So, I would like to thank Danette, Christine and Kirstyne (I hope I have got their names right) for being so friendly and helping me with their unique hotel finding service!

The hotel was only a few miles away so I will on how I got on with the backrest in a few days time.

It was easy to find the hotel and I can see why they call it the “Historic” Strater Hotel. It was built in 1887 after becoming the dream of 20 year old Henry H. Strater who wanted to build the best and biggest hotel in the west. Since 1926 the hotel has been run by the Barker family and although updated and modernised over the years, it maintains a style all of its own. It is very charming and I can see why the place is so popular and often full.

This is the outside of the hotel.....


















Part of the lobby....


















Some shots of the room I am staying in.... it’s fabulous.....






























































The Diamond Belle bar where great food is served and music is played in a ragtime style very evening....







































It is great fun and having eaten in there for two nights, Johnny Maddox, the piano player now recognised me and played a fine melody of English songs in his own style for me....


























The waitresses dress up in an 1800’s style....


























.... and each evening, there is a mock gunfight in the bar and on the street. It is a silly stuff, but it was great fun for the tourists. Oh, I am one of them!

Whilst I was in Durango, I went on the train to Silverton and back. I have never been on a train pulled by a steam locomotive before and so I was looking forward to this a great deal. This will be the subject of a seperate post, probably tomorrow.

On Saturday morning I went for a walk in the town which was very quiet, got a haircut and drank coffee while I talked to Al, who was originally from New Hampshire but decided to go for a ride on his Honda motorbike in 2008 and rode for 15,000miles before arriving in Durango where he has mainly stayed since. It was good to chat with Al and of course, we compared road stories and talked about what we had seen on our rides, Sturgis, bikes, bison.......


























As I walked around Durango, I spotted this very old sign, painted on a brick wall....


























My regular readers may remember that I met John and Diana in Gunnison. They live in Durango where I am at the moment and this evening the three of us went to dinner at one of their favourite places which is located in a converted boathouse on an island in a reservoir. It was a very unusual place to say the least and the food was very good and the company excellent. Thank you to you both for choosing such a unique place to take me to.

Here are John and Diana just before dinner....




















And here I am in my smartest shirt that I have with me!....




















The boathouse, now a restaurant....




















I am beginning to like Durango and its people!