Wednesday, 22 September 2010

Bubble Bath Makes the Leading Ladies Smile Once More....

In the evening, I looked at my Leading Ladies and they were complaining. They were filthy dirty and badly needed a wash. Luckily therefore, I am carrying with me some basic cleaning gear, so I found their favourite bubble bath and gave them a much needed clean. Most motels / hotels will let you use their hosepipe and the plastic waste bins in the rooms make ideal buckets for the hot soapy water! Not only did the ladies want to be washed, but they also wanted to be dried and polished too. I must say they did look sparkling some two and a half hours later when I had finished.

As I was cleaning the bike, three other bikes arrived at the motel and, well you know how things are, bikers talk to other bikers and soon we had a group bike cleaning / chatting session going. The four bikes looked good lined up in the car park, clean and shiny once more!

These are the four people that arrived on the 3 bikes, this picture being taken in the morning, just before we departed the motel. So, meet Doug and Julie, Kevin, Mike from McKinney, Texas ....




















All that hard work cleaning the Leading Ladies was wasted the next day when it rained! It hadn’t rained for so long, the roads were very dirty and as soon as the rain fell, the dirty water was sprayed up from my front wheel and other vehicles, so now the bike needs doing again! It will have to wait a few days, for I just don’t feel like doing it just yet.

When I started riding today I went first to the base of Cascade Falls in Ouray. At this time of year the falls are just a trickle but the height is tall enough to make seeing them at any time of year worthwhile. A warning though – like many minor roads in small towns in Colorado, the one to get to the falls is gravel, but riding to the falls is okay, albeit a short way uphill. Here are the falls....


























The trouble is, as I discovered a few days ago, riding up steep gravel roads is relatively easy, but coming down them is not. I used my new-found technique of turning off the engine and coasting down whilst holding the clutch in, letting out the clutch when I needed to slow down and therefore using the engine braking to slow down without fear of locking a wheel. I have found the worst thing to do is to use the front brake in these circumstances as this does lock the front wheel on the loose gravel. This was the gravel road leading away from the falls....


























Heading west out of the town, I saw Ouray hot springs. I had considered going there the previous evening and I am glad I didn’t – they looked too utilitarian for my taste....


























I did notice the large fish pond in the foreground and there are many huge fish in there. Maybe it has something to do with the water and its minerals....




















The road between Ridgeway and Placerville and then south is a good one, but I must admit, I think I have too much of a good thing. I can only take so much of great looking mountain scenery and while if I came across this as my first Colorado mountain scene, I would think it wonderful, after 3 weeks of magnificent peaks, I had seen enough....




















On John and Diana’s recommendation, I went to see Log Hill, which has a terrific road leads to golf course with a great view on the way up. They also told me to look out for a timber fence running alongside the main road and sure enough I saw it. It looks new and goes on for miles, surrounding what I later found out was a 15,000 acre ranch. Here is the entrance to the ranch....




















The Double RL stands for a certain Ralph Lauren. I am certainly pleased to see that some of the money I have spent on his shirts has been invested wisely!

I had decided to go to Telluride for lunch, but I wish I hadn’t bothered. This was approaching the town....




















This is the main street through the town....




















Now, bearing in mind this is a tiny town in the mountains, no doubt wanting the business that passing visitors can offer, I was amazed to discover that to park on the main road in the town, you had to pay. I really couldn’t be bothered to find out how to pay and do whatever I needed to help this obviously poor struggling town to keep its financial head above water. I feel sorry for the businesses in Telluride, having to put up with some stupid local politician that thinks it is important to collect money to park a car or motorbike. I went somewhere else for lunch!

Nearby, I stopped for gas and noticed some lovely cars being unloaded from a covered truck. I waited while this old Alpha Romeo was taken out from the back....







































I stood admiring this beauty and noticed a gentleman standing nearby and I said something like “That is a lovely car”. He looked at me as if I was something he just stepped in and he didn’t respond, choosing instead to say to the guys unloading the vehicles in a loud voice “Will you please hurry and unload my car after George’s”. I am careful not to swear on my blog, but this guy was a wanker. I have met very few impolite people on my tour, but this guy goes on the top of my list as Arse Number 1.

I didn’t wait to see his car unloaded. I hope they dropped it.

I left Telluride vowing never to return!

Here are a few last Colorado mountain pictures. The weather wasn’t great and it rained a coup[le of times, but still not enough for me to stop and put on my waterproofs....


























































On the road towards Cortez, I hit the 13,000 mile point on my tour just south of Dolores, and here is the now customary photo of the ‘000 mile point...




















Wow, 13,000 miles!

I have discovered that I have made a major misjudgement regarding places to stay. Each evening, at around 4 or 5 o’clock, I begin to look for somewhere to stay that night. It has been so easy to find motels or hotels that I like the look of when I arrive in a town and these places have always had a room available, that I got a little complacent about this, being sure I could find a bed for the night just about anywhere. I was wrong! When I arrived in Cortez, it occurred to me that I really should look at what accommodation might be available in Monument Valley and make a reservation, just in case they got busy each day as that evenings travellers began to arrive. I telephone the hotel I wanted to stay at, but to my disappointment, it was full. I telephoned all of the hotels in Bluff, the next nearest town and they too were all full. I looked at what was available for miles around – nothing! With the help of Jackie my wife, the nearest place we could find and book was in Page. Wait for it, that is 121 miles away!!

I also checked the Hotel I wanted us to stay at in the Grand Canyon – the only rooms available were on different nights than I wanted and were very expensive! This lack of hotels / motels would need some serious re-arrangement of my tour plans for Arizona! Instead of going to Monument Valley now, I will go later when hotel rooms are available – I have booked one already!

I went to bed in Cortez slightly annoyed with myself, that I was having to change my route just because I hadn’t thought about booking hotel rooms in busy areas. On this tour, good days are common. This was not one of them!

Tuesday, 21 September 2010

Riding the Million Dollar Highway

On this day, I was going to ride one of the roads that many people had said I should – the Million Dollar Highway.

I have now got quite used to meeting other bikers and talking to them and invariably, suggestions abound and ideas are exchanged about where to ride. I love this type of chat and occasionally a real gem of a suggestions comes my way. This one particular road, US Highway 552, had been suggested to me as much as any other road, so I was eagerly anticipating what it had to offer.

I had arranged to ride the first part of the road, from Durango to Silverton with my new friends, John and Diana and we took off riding north at 10 o’clock in the morning....


























They lead the first part of the way, showing me a back-road that I didn’t know of, that lead to a bridge over a river that I had flagged in my gps / sat nav as maybe worthwhile seeing. This next picture is taken from Bakers Bridge over-looking the Animas River. For those of you who have seen the film “Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid” you might be interested to know it was here that the final scene showing the two outlaws jumping off a cliff was filmed. This is the cliff....




















Of course in the actual film scene, the cliff was made to look much deeper!

John and Diana then lead to me Haviland Lake, where we saw a terrific reflection of the mountains behind....
















As we rode further north, the scenery became more spectacular.... it is a shame photographs never seem to do mountains justice. Believe me, these were magnificent way beyond what these pictures show....





































Soon we arrived at Silverton, a town of just 531 people (2000) and I am told it is so-called because during it mining peak, there was silver-by-the-ton. Today it mainly caters for the tourists (like me) that ride the Durango to Silverton steam train. We stopped to look down at the town from the highway....




















Silverton was lovely when we were there on a warm sunny day. I can’t imagine what the town must be like in the winter with its 300+ inches of snow that falls each year. We had drinks in a bar and I bought a couple of t-shirts for my sons. At this point I said my farewells to John and Diana as they needed to get back to Durango - it was good riding with you!

The main part of the Million Dollar Highway is north from Silverton to Ouray, a distance of just 23 miles. I have heard two different reasons about why it has its name. It is either because it cost a million dollars a mile to build, or because the fill they used to make up the road has traces of gold and silver contained within it. Whichever is true, it is still a great name for a road.

The road itself is a terrific ride, but you need to have nerves of steel along some parts as there are steep drop-offs and no guard rails. In places the road hugs the side of a steep slope of a mountain and in others, it has great bends which are ideal for motorcycling. I made a video and that is near the end of this post, but first here are a few photos. There are not many pictures of the parts with steep drop-offs as generally these do not have a shoulder to stop on to take pictures. Here is what I did manage to take and some of these were shot on the move....

A nice sweeping bend....




















You can see the road cut into the side of the mountain....




















Mountain views, lovely bends and yellow Aspens trees moving into autumn. What a combination!....



















































































I like this shot of the hairpin bend....




















Another tight bend....




















The changing colours of the trees make for a splendid background to the road....













































































In one spot that is obviously susceptible to avalanches, or falling rocks, a special tunnel has been constructed in order that the road can be kept open. This is taking inside that tunnel....





















One of the parts of the road you need to pay particular attention on....





















Just before arriving in Ouray, there is a place you can stop and overlook the town....




















Main Street in Ouray, with its shops, bars and restaurants. I tried all three!....




















Here is the video of riding the Million Dollar Highway.... I hope you enjoy the ride....



Another one of the great roads Colorado has to offer! It felt good to ride this road, so I turned around and rode it again – twice on the first day to make the video and twice again the next day to go back to take the photos!

When I checked in at the motel for the night I decided to wash the bike and I met a guy called Nick, a Patent Lawyer, from the next town, called Gerrards Cross, next to where I used to live on the west side of London. It can be a small world..... Nick wondered why I was cleaning my bike when it already looked so clean to him. I explained it was about as dirty as it has ever been and the Leading Ladies didn’t like it.....

Sunday, 19 September 2010

When in Durango, Ride the Train

In Europe, “When in Rome, do as the Romans do” is a popular saying. I can equally think of an appropriate saying for Durango. “When in Durango, ride the train”, which is just what I did while I was here.

I had heard of the Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad when I was planning my tour back in London and it was something I really wanted to do. I booked a seat in an open carriage with no windows, to take full advantage of the photo opportunities this train ride presented.

Construction work on the railroad started in the autumn of 1881 and the trains started running, unbelievably, all the way to Silverton which is about 45 miles, in July the following year. The railroad was originally built to transport gold and silver ore from the mountains around Silverton down to Durango, but the line soon attracted passengers who enjoyed the journey through this rugged terrain.

The tracks follow the route of the Animas River and at times the scenery is dramatic and picturesque. The track rises some 2800 feet / 850 meters along its length. I enjoyed the journey – in both directions – greatly. I met and sat next to George and Carolyn, a couple originally from Texas, but who now live in Pagosa Springs. They were very good company indeed for the 9 hour round trip.

The railroad uses 7 steam engines. At the moment two are being overhauled and the remaining 5 share the workload of hauling the trains from Durango to Silverton each day and back again. Some of these locomotives date back to the 1800’s and are in remarkable condition. I asked if they kept the fires in the boilers burning overnight and the answer was yes - they have an engine watchman working overnight to ensure the fires do not go out, because it takes 6 hours to restart them and to get the engines hot enough to make steam!

One of the locomotives leaving Durango....


















The train I was on, climbing along the edge of one of the canyons....



































There are tremendous views to be seen along the route....




























































Another of the sections where the track rises up a steep incline. The locomotive needs to work hard going up here....


















In places, there is not much clearance between the train cars and the rocks....


























In the open cars, people generally stand so they can look forward. At the end of a 7 hour journey, my legs were complaining about this!.....


















The best views of the train are when it is rounding a bend....


























What a great place to build a railroad....
















This is the town of Silverton in the San Juan mountains. It is not a big place, but it caters well for the train passengers....









































I saw this sign in a shop window which I am sure one of my readers will like....


















The train turns around while the passengers are on a two-hour break for lunch. I happened to notice the train reversing into the station area. The conductor uses his hat to signal to the train driver / engineer when to stop reversing....


























It was a busy day with so many passengers, they used two trains. Here are the two locomotives looking splendid and ready for their task. There is something very powerful about steam engines.....













































I returned early from lunch and sneaked a look at the engine, as seen by the driver.... this looks complicated!....


























One of the trains departing back towards Durango....

















One of the fine views on the way back down....


























The engines have to work much less hard on the way back down, but they maintain a full head of steam for the brakes....


















The tracks pass over the river about 3 times. This is one of the bridges....


















This is the engine “letting off steam”.... to release excess pressure....


























The sun shining through the smoke and steam....


















I had a great day on the train! I did learn that taking photos from a moving train is not easy. I took many and discarded most!