Sunday, 17 October 2010

Goosenecks, Moki Dugway and A Bridge For Helen

Now if that isn’t a strange title to this post, then I don’t know what is.

About a year ago I saw a photo of the Colorado River in Goosenecks State Park. It showed the meandering river and how it had cut into the soft rock to form an amazing curving canyon, called Goosenecks. I knew I wanted to see it for myself. When I saw the picture, I realised the shot was taken with a fisheye and this was the inspiration for me to go out and buy one of these lenses for myself.

Being quite near to Goosenecks, I knew I would get there early in the morning and it was going to be a sunny day. On the way, I just knew the photos I took wouldn’t be good because of the sun making such intense shadows and I was right. The picture below is over exposed just to get some detail in the shadows....



















It doesn’t look far with the view through the fisheye lens, but the rock outcrop in front of me was quite a long way away and I know I should have walked there to take the photo, but to be honest, I didn’t have the energy to do this as I knew the resultant photo would still not be very good. I resigned myself to sticking with what I had got!

Instead I walked along the ridge to get another shot of one of the bends....




















In the car park at Goosenecks, I did meet a German couple who had shipped their own camper van over and were on a year’s road trip of the USA. I got a shot of the back of their van as they were driving away....




























Very close by is a road called Moli Dugway. I have no idea why it is called that, but I will look it up. I had heard about this on a motorcycle forum I used to read and I had learnt it was a steep gravel road, but I didn’t know much more about it. This sign was the first indication I was near it....




















The road rises up a steep cliff. As you ride up the cliff along the flat ground you cannot see any indication of the road and as I got nearer to the bottom of the cliff I wondered if the road did in fact climb the cliff at all as all I could see was a sheer cliff in front of me. I had mounted a video camera on the bike, so I will let the video tell some of the story of riding this road....




That was quite a road. I am getting somewhat used to riding on gravel roads now so I wasn’t too worried about this one. As long as I take it slow and brake only very gently, I feel relatively safe. Here are some photos I stooped and took....

This is the best overall shot of the road I took....




















The road as it rises ....



















I said it was steep!....





















I love this bend....





















This is a road that you really don’t want to fall off!....



























Looking down at where I had just ridden....



















The view from the top is stunning....



















When I was at the top admiring the view, I met David and Lei Nani (a Hawaiian name). They are from Farmington, in North Western New Mexico. We chatted for sometime abou my trip, Lei Nanis ancestors and guns....



























They were a really interesting couple. He had driven a huge rig on the Moki Dugway road about 20 years previously and he wanted to show Lei Nani where he had been. It was tough getting such a big vehicle around the bends, so he had to sleep here overnight before continuing his journey. She told me about her Mormon family that had travelled across the area in the 1880’s when her Great Grand-Father was a settler looking for somewhere to live. Times were very hard back then and I learned a little about how the settlers had to use ropes to raise and lower their wagons and supplies in order to cross the canyons that are prevalent in the area.

We talked about guns and David went and retrieved his from their truck to show me...



























Coming from a country where it is illegal to have a gun, it seems strange that people feel a need to carry one. David told me he felt safer having one. I thought about this as I continued my journey and I suspect that if I lived in the US, I too would probably carry a gun, especially in particular areas such as near the Mexico border. I have watched some recent news items about the trouble the Mexico border states have with “illegals” and drug runners. I wouldn’t want to carry a gun, but so many people have told me they feel they need to, that I would probably feel the same way if I lived there....

I spoke on the telephone with my cousin’s long-term partner, Helen. I wanted to congratulate her for some terrific good news she had about a health issue she had been battling with for many years. Great news Helen!

When we were on the ‘phone, Helen told me of her love of bridges and just how much she had enjoyed seeing all of the photos of the bridges I had posted on my blog. Obviously encouraging me to include more, I thought today was an ideal opportunity to meet her wish, but not with the usual type of bridge! On day 114 I was to go see the Natural Bridges National Monument in southern Utah.

Located in White Canyon, there are three natural bridges. The most impressive of these (and thankfully the easiest to walk to down into the canyon and back up again) is Owachomo. This has a 180 foot span, is 106 feet high, is 27 feet wide and 9 feet thick. Made of sandstone, the desert stream would occasionally wear away at the rock and form a bridge structure. As the river bed got deeper, the bridge got higher. Today, the stream runs nearby and no longer runs underneath the bridge span. The natural bridge is spectacular and I hope Helen likes it.... I photographed it from both sides....





































I walked down to where the desert stream runs today and the power of its waters became immediately obvious. It was not flowing, but it became clear that it had been just a day or so ago because there was water in parts of the river bed and undisturbed mud / sand patterns....



















This is a wider shot of the stream bed....



























If the water could move sand and mud into these patterns, then it must have been flowing quite fast. I can see how this would erode the weak sandstone rock over a long time.

After moving on from the Natural Bridges National Park, I headed west on Highway 95 and was intrigued to see the road run up a huge cliff. This is known as Comb Ridge and not only did it rise along the face of the cliff, when it nears the top, a whole section of the cliff has been removed to allow the road to pass through it. You can see the gap in the cliff in the photo below....





















This is riding along the rising road just before it turns left and goes through where the cliff used to be! There were signs saying no stopping or parking because it was clear that many rocks had fallen in this area and no doubt many more would do in the future. The cliff was heavily cracked and huge (and I do mean HUGE) sections of the rock face looked as if they could fall at any minute. I didn’t hang around!....



























I had to look twice when I saw this sign. Surely that should say Cottonwood?....





















I checked the sign facing in the opposite direction....





















Yep, Cottnowood was mis-spelt. Now, that’s not something you see every day!

As I rode north towards Moab, my stop for the night,, I passed Church Rock. Does it look like a church? I don’t think so....





















Then I passed Wilson Arch, named after Joe Wilson, a local pioneer....



























I then reached what must be one of the most over-the-top and inappropriate signs I have seen anywhere. What person in their right mind would paint this on a cliff, just to advertise a shop? This is commerciaslism gone mad....





















If you look closely on the left of the sign, there is also a huge lizard sculpture fixed to the rock. This is a close up. Actually I like this, but I still didn’t go into the shop on principle as they had defaced the cliff....




















I hope Helen liked the bridge!

Saturday, 16 October 2010

Monument Valley – A Very Special Place

I passed through Monument Valley on my way south to meet Jackie and due to time being short, I managed to see only part of what was there. At that time, I mainly stayed on the main road (US 163) as it passes from Utah into Arizona and just took a few pictures as I passed through.

On days 112 and 113, I was able to return and go into the Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park. I am certainly glad that I did, for it is a truly amazing place. Monument Valley is centred around a group of sandstone buttes being all that is left of the original plateau that was washed away by the ever changing courses of rivers that have flowed across the area forming the valley. The valley floor is made of siltstone and its red colour is caused by iron oxide, once part of the siltstone.

My pictures were therefore taken on three different days and at different times of those days. I deliberately went to take photos early in the morning to catch the sunrise and in the evening for the sunset. These are without a doubt the best times to get the best light for photos. On one of the days I went on a two and a half hour guided tour through the valley, a service operated by the Navajo Indians. You can drive through the valley in your own vehicles, but it should really be a 4 wheel drive. I had to laugh at some of the people trying to take regular cars across the heavily rutted tracks!

Monument Valley is very special indeed. The scenery is very simple, with just rocks, buttes, sand and some vegetation being all that is there. All except the other people, who like me, were eager to get the best pictures possible. Almost everybody has a camera! To be fair, I didn’t struggle too much to get pictures without other tourists in – you just need to be creative about how you take your pictures. I was also getting quite good at asking people to move out of shot!

This first picture is of Agathia Peak to the south of the Valley and I was determined to get some pictures with the Leading Ladies in the foreground. There was a track leading to an Indian village that I took the liberty of riding along and stopping for a picture....





















I was a little concerned whether I was trespassing, but a truck went along the track with a huge Indian lady cheerfully waving and smiling at me. I guessed I was okay to be there!

This next picture is at Mexican Hat, just north of Monument Valley. The town is so called as this rock feature near the town looks like, err, a Mexican hat. It is a remarkable natural balancing act and I did wonder what the small town would do if it ever collapsed, as it surely will do one day.....



















Continuing on this theme of what is near to the Valley, this is Twin Rocks, near the town of Bluff. To me it looks like two people kissing, so I have unofficially renamed them the kissing rocks....



















The next two pictures must have been taken millions of times before, as it is one of the classic views of the area. Taken along US 163 just north of some of the buttes, both are taken looking south. The first photo was taken in the afternoon and of course this is looking into the sun with the buttes largely in shadow....



















This second photo was taken early in the morning, just after sunrise and the light is much better....



















I think this is a perfect example of having to think about the suns position and needing to return to somewhere at a different time of day, in order to get that better picture.

There are many places that sell hand-made Navajo jewellery at the roadside. As I was there so early in the morning I sneaked my bike around the back of the vendors huts to get the next picture. I am sure I would have been stopped if the jewellery sellers were there....



























More pictures taken in the early morning, before entering the park....





















































In order to enter the Navajo Tribal Park, the entry cost of which was the best $5 I have ever spent, you travel along a 5 mile (ish) access road. Before you arrive at the pay point, the views from this road are pretty good, giving a taste of what is to come. This was taken in the afternoon as the sun began to set...
















I couldn’t resist trying the reflection in the mirror shot again, but this time with my big camera....

















I did stop for this next picture. Sitting motionless on a 65 mph road in the middle of the lane means you do three things – you act fast, only take one picture and keep watching your mirrors!...



























The rest of the pictures are all taken within the park itself. I took hundreds of pictures and eliminated those I wasn’t happy with and that left me with those that I thought I might include on my blog. I checked how many that was and then thought that perhaps 93 was a few too many to include! Monument Valley is so special it was hard to eliminate so many to get down to the manageable number I have eventually posted!

This is looking down from the elevated visitors centre. The three structures are known as the Mittens. The track on the valley floor is where the tour vehicles and unsuspecting people in their pristine cars with low profile tyres (US = tires) drive....



















I make no apology for these next few pictures. Yes I know they are similar, but I don’t care, as they are some of my favourites and I didn’t want to exclude any of them!....


























































Deeper into the valley, I looked back at the Mittens....




















The tour guide then took us to see how the weather has formed holes in some of the rocks. These are mainly caused by wind....

This is the first we came to....



























The next was called the “Ear”....




























It is difficult to judge the scale of these rocks from the photos, so I have deliberately included a group of tourists in this next picture....



























If you look carefully at the picture above, you can make out the shape of an Indians head in the rock, with the dark water stain to the right being his hair.

Above where the tourists were standing is this hole. How perfect is this? Nature can be wonderful at times....



























This is our guide, playing a, um, I don’t know what it is!.....



























Famous for a Marlboro cigarette commercial, this is Totem Pole rock....





















Nearby was a formation of rocks that looked like a skull....





















Rocks shaped like a hand....



























And a rock shaped like a, err, thumb. That is what the guide called it.... I like the aircraft trail....



























This was heading back to the visitors centre....




















Finally, this is the main Mitten Butte at sunset. The colour was fantastic!.....




















Without a doubt, Monument Valley is a very special place. It was one of the places I was looking forward to the most on my tour and it didn’t disappoint. If you visit Monument valley, go on one of the guided tours that are arranged from the car park of the View Hotel in the park. You cannot miss the little hut. Go in the afternoon so that you get back to the visitor centre just before sunset. The cost was $75 for a 2.5 hour tour, which in my opinion, was great value. If you want to stay at the View Hotel, don’t do what I did and assume you can book it a week before you arrive – they take bookings up to a year in advance!

I can’t help thinking it would be great to ride an off-road bike through the valley on the dirt roads, Just follow the tour guides vehicles so you find the best places. It would be even better to do it on a Ural....

Monument Valley is now on my list of favourite places.