Sunday, 7 November 2010

Ostriches, Emu’s and a Danish Town in the US

Day 136 saw me riding from San Luis Obispo to Santa Barbara and for much of this part of the route, Highway 1 is inland from the ocean. This meant the chill from the sea mist was gone for much of the day and indeed, the temperature was unseasonably warm at around 80F for much of the day.

Near the town of Buellton I went to see an Ostrich and Emu farm. These are strange flightless birds but what really surprised me was their strength. For just a dollar, you could feed these birds and I was given a pan of pellets which you are meant to hold out to the birds. WHAM! They hit the pan so hold it is difficult to hold on! They have very powerful necks and the force they are capable of is quite something.

Imagine holding onto a pan with one hand, being careful to watch what these huge birds are doing, while trying to take a photo of them with a heavy-ish full sized digital camera – it isn’t easy! I managed to get a couple of reasonable shots....

Meet my friend Olly the Ostrich....


























This is his closely related cousin, Eric the Emu....




















I have to say, they ain’t the best looking creatures I have ever seen!

In certain parts of California I have passed huge fields growing crops of what I think is lettuce. Long raised beds covered in plastic are created about a foot high and then planted with seedlings.

The full-grown crop looks like this....




















These is the lines and lines of raised beds covered in plastic....




















These lines are just after planting....




















I had heard that the town of Solvang was interesting as much of the architecture is based on what would be found in Denmark. The town of Solvang (which means sunny fields in Danish) was founded in 1911 by a group of Danes wanting to move away from the harsher northern winters in the USA.

A few scenes from Solvang....




































































































But, the main reason I came to Solvang was to go to the Solvang Vintage Motorcycle Museum. The bikes are part of the private collection of Virgil Elings and are mainly centred around racing bikes, but there is a broad range of different types of bike contained in the museum.




















This is a 1954 Norton Manx Shortstroke, which has an interesting history. One of only two of these bikes imported into New Zealand, it was owned and raced by Rod Coleman....




















One of the best bikes ever made, this is a 1932 Brough Superior SS100, so called because even back in 1932, they were capable of 100mph. Lawrence of Arabia was killed riding one of these bikes....




















Can an engine be beautiful? Of course it can!!! Just look at this Yale V-Twin....


























The engine of a 1940 Crocker. I read at the museum that Crocker offered a full refund for any bike that was beaten by a stock Harley or Indian. No refunds were ever given....




















My absolute favourite racing bike of all time, this is a 1952 MV, this being a 350cc. MV went on to win more world championships that any other make. When I was a boy, I used to go to watch bike racing at places like Brands Hatch and Silverstone. Giacomo Agostini was my idol, riding an MV Augusta. For the 5 years of 1968-1972 he won the world championship in both the 350 and 500cc classes....




















A very rare 1950 Vincent TT Grey Flash....






















1948 350cc Douglas Twin....




















What a beautiful bike this 1924 Moto Guzzi C4V is. This is a racing bike with a very unusual single horizontal cylinder. The museum told me is was damaged when shipped from Italy – now restored, but can you imagine the anguish when they un-crated it and found the damaged....




















Finally from the museum, a 1936 BMW R12....




















A visit to the museum is very worthwhile. They are open every weekend, but they open during the week by appointment only.

Highway 154 between Santa Ynez and the outskirts of Santa Barbara is unremarkable. At one point the road crosses Kelly Creek which is no more than a small stream. The creek however runs through a canyon and there is a fantastic bridge which carries the road over the canyon. It is a shame that most people don’t realise what they are driving on. Luckily, I knew it was there and took the long way around to get these pictures....






























































If you like bridges, this is stunning. If your name is Helen, it is just another bridge!

Did a zebra get run over here, or is this road snake hell?....

Saturday, 6 November 2010

20,000 miles and California’s Highway 1

There is nothing quite like riding down California’s Highway 1.

The views are spectacular. The wind blows off the ocean bringing mist and the smell of sea air with it. The sun shines through the mist and you are warm, then hides again and you cool down straight away as the sunlight fails to fight its way through. It parts the road is twisty and in others, straight.

The mist lingers....


























Looking towards the sun makes the view seem monochrome....




















Built in 1931/2, Bixby Bridge is normally photographed from the main coast road that it carries. I chose instead to ride inland along a dirt road to get a different view....


























Looking back up the coast from near Bixby Bridge....




















As I was taking the picture above I was talking to a guy named Brett from Bermuda. He has taken a year off work to go riding and expects to take his BMW 1200GS to wait for it....

The New England States
New Brunswick and Nova Scotia
Newfoundland
Quebec
Montreal
Niagara
The Great Divide - Colorado, Utah, Wyoming, Montana, Idaho
British Columbia and all the way to Prudhoe Bay in Alaska
West coast of the US (he has got this far)
Mexico
Guatemala, Honduras, Nicaragua and Costa Rica
Panama, Columbia, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Chile, Paraguay, Brazil and Argentina.

Not content with stopping there, Brett will then ship the bike to New Zealand, then ride some of Australia and onto to South East Asia or Japan.

Wow. Quite a trip!

So far, he has ridden 14,000 miles.

This is Brett....


























Good luck Brett, I will be keeping an eye on you via your blog.

I rode on down Highway 1 stopping occasionally to look at the views....




























































I was enjoying the scenery so much, I forgot to keep an eye on my odometer and I rode right passed the 20,000 mile point on my tour! Having stopped exactly at every ‘000 mile point so far, how could I miss that one?? I thought about riding back to roughly where the point it would have been, but decided against it, so I took a picture where I was and this will have to suffice as my 20,000 mile picture....




















I knew of a place where I was certain I would see Elephant Seals. This is near San Simeon....













































There were many hundreds of them here and nearly all of them asleep!

William Randolph Hearst was a newspaper magnate who employed architect Julia Morgan to design a grand house for him near San Simeon, called "La Cuesta Encantada", or the Enchanted Hill. Today it is commonly known as Hearst castle, which is strange, as it looks nothing like a castle. It is quite a place to visit with fine rooms, wonderful tapestries and some gorgeous artwork....

This is one of two guest houses....




















The Neptune swimming pool....
































































One of the verandas. The view looks over part of the estate and to the Pacific Ocean....




















The main house, err, castle.... To me, it looks more like a Spanish Church....


























That is quite a front door!....


























Inside one of the bedrooms in one of the guests houses....




















One of the main reception rooms. Note the tapestries on the walls....




















The main dining hall....




















My favourite place in the house is the indoor swimming pool. I so wanted to jump in here....













































A long time ago I watched a TV programme in the UK about riding down the Pacific Coast and I remembered they featured a hotel called the Madonna Inn, on that show. It seemed so way-over-the-top that I just had to go see it and so I booked a room and stayed there.

They have many feature rooms and I couldn’t resist getting the Madonna Suite.... it is very pink!....


























































Yes, those are real rocks that make up part of the walls.

The bathroom was stunning. This is the basin, where the water flows down the rocks before spilling into the basin itself (which of course is made of rock)....


























I was there in early November, but they already had their Christmas decorations in place in their restaurant!....




















The Madonna Inn is certainly OTT, but great fun. It is located in San Luis Obispo. It is one of those rare place where you need to wear your sunglasses indoors. Even with the lights turned off.

Friday, 5 November 2010

Sorry, You Cannot Come In Here, plus Jeanne Gets Her Prize

I left the slightly inland Salinas and rejoined the Pacific coast near Monterey where I went to see Fishermans Wharf and Cannery Row. Fishermans Wharf does exactly what it says on the tin – it is a wharf for fisherman. Fishing boats tie up and unload their catch and the smells in the air told me quite a few fish had been caught recently. The wharf is old and made of wood, so perhaps the smell of fish was ingrained in the timbers.

The wharf also runs alongside the marina where boats used for fun greatly out-number the working boats....









































Cannery Row is a road that contains a number of now closed factories that used to can sardines that were landed at Fishermans Wharf. The road now mainly caters to the tourist trade and its name was changed to Cannery Row after the novel by John Steinbeck of the same name. This is one of the old factories....




















I liked this mural painted on an old concrete wall....




















One of the Cannery Row piers, now a restaurant....




















A grand looking statue at one end of Cannery Row....


























This is perhaps the smallest Harley-Davidson shop I have ever seen. It mainly sells t-shirts, but no bike parts are sold there, no bikes are serviced or sold. I don’t like these clothes only H-D stores, so I walked on by....


























A bust of John Steinbeck....


























The plaque below the statue copies part of his book Cannery Row....

“Cannery Row in Monterey is a poem, a stink, a grating noise, a quality of light, a tone, a habit, a nostalgia, a dream. Cannery Row is the gathered and scattered, tin and iron and rust and splintered wood, chipped pavement and weedy lots and junk heaps, sardine canneries of corrugated iron, honky tonks, restaurants and whore houses, and little crowded groceries, and laboratories and flophouses....”

I have never read Cannery Row, but perhaps I will now. John Steinbeck was born in 1902 and died in 1968.

I rode around part of the Monterey Peninsula looking at the waves crashing on the rocks. The swell wasn’t as big as the day before, but impressive all the same....















































My plan for the morning was then to ride around Pebble Beach and the Del Monte Forest on a road that is commonly known as 17 miles drive. You have to pay to drive on the road which contains many large houses and terrific views of the ocean – two of my favourite things! I approached the pay booth and got nine dollars out of my wallet ready to pay, to be asked where I was going. “To ride around the 17 miles Drive” I answered. “Motorbikes are not allowed in here” I was told.

I couldn’t believe it. You can drive any vehicle in, no matter how old, loud or wrecked it is, even a huge truck. You can be a criminal and be allowed in, providing you are in a car. But, if you ride a motorbike – no way – you are not coming in. My complaints fell on deaf ears and I was turned away being told “This land is privately owned and the residents have voted to keep motorbikes out”. Anybody who lives there is allowed to take a bike in, but no visitors.

So, here is a picture of 17 mile Drive....




















At least, that is what I saw of it.

Some of my readers may recall I previously wrote about playing a game with people who talked to me about my bike. I was running a competition to reward the first person who could name all 10 of the portraits of the movie actresses on my bike. In Jackson Hole, Wyoming, I met George and Jeanne who could name 9 of these and Jeanne clearly knew the 10th, but couldn’t remember her name. They suggested we meet when I passed through Carmel and we parted promising to keep in touch. The next day, George wrote to me saying that Jeanne had remembered the name of the last actress, so Jeanne became the winner of my little competition.

We kept in contact and arranged to meet for dinner in Carmel. George asked along some of his friends some of who rode motorbikes and we all met at Baja Cantina in Carmel....




















It was great fun to see George and Jeanne again and to meet some of their friends. One of these was Craig Vetter who in 1973 designed the Triumph Hurricane. I read about Craig and the bike on Wikipedia.

I presented Jeanne with her prize. This is George and Jeanne after dinner....


























And here I am getting ready to leave the restaurant....




















A day that was potentially spoilt by not being able to see 17 Mile Drive was made up for by the terrific company for dinner. Thank you George for arranging it. It was very nice to meet Jeanne and yourself again.