Thursday, 14 February 2013

New Zealand’s Glorious West Coast, or is it?


Before we left New Zealand’s South Island, Jackie and I drove long it’s west coast. We had heard from a friend who had been here recently (thanks Paul) that the west coast of the South Island is pretty special, so we were eager to see it for ourselves.

We didn’t quite see what we had expected.

Driving north along Highway 6, the first glimpse of the sea is just beyond Mount Aspiring National Park, but make the most of it. For a large proportion of the road, it is actually inland and only rarely can you see the water of the Tasman Sea. When you do, it is generally a dramatic landscape....



Many bridges on New Zealand’s South Island are one way, with traffic needing to give way one direction or another. There are so few cars, this is not a problem, but on the larger rivers, these can be similar to small viaducts, with many foundations, or in a few cases, there are suspension bridges....



A long section of Highway 6 is dominated by Westland National Park, featuring Mount Tasman and Mount Cook. Even in mid summer, the peaks in the area are covered in what looks like snow, but are actually glaciers, ranging from large to small. The combination of rivers, forests and high peaks is very appealing....





We stayed overnight at the small town of Fox Glacier, which takes its name from the permanent ice glacier on Mount Tasman. We set our alarms early, ready for a helicopter flight to see the Fox and Franz Josef Glaciers. Sadly, morning was accompanied with low cloud and the flights were suspended.

The view of Fox Glacier is not good from ground level without a considerable walk and so we made our way to Franz Josef and glimpsed the glacier from a distance....



It was a shame not to be able to see them from closer, but we had been spoilt with terrific weather, so we had no complaints.

Some of the other occasional views of the sea....





This is not a sign you see every day. We didn’t see any penguins though....



Intrigued by the so-called Pancake Rocks, we stopped and took a look at Punakaiki Park. The Pancake Rocks are limestone formations that began forming 30 million years ago, when lime-rich fragments of dead marine creatures were deposited on the seabed in layers, then later uplifted by earthquakes. Partly worn away by erosion from the sea, the layers are said to look like stacks of pancakes. My imagination didn’t stretch that far, but the small park is a wonderful place, with many photo opportunities....











A final view of the sea, with spray coming off the waves....



We stayed in Westport for the night and reflected on our drive along the coast. Yes, it is glorious, but we wished we had been able to see more of it. It is only in a few places that the road goes close enough to actually see what is a marvellous coastline. Probably.

The next day, we drove to Picton to catch the ferry to the North Island. Before we did, the last stretch of road we drove was probably the best I have ever seen anywhere. I didn’t take any pictures but will do a post just about this fantastic road soon .....

Wednesday, 13 February 2013

Jet Boats and a Helicopter


Well, I am a few days behind with my posting. Finding accommodation with good internet service at a reasonable cost has been a challenge, so I have concentrated on eating and drinking, instead of posting!

We stayed in Wanaka in the centre of the South Island and had a terrific view of the lake from our room. In fact, we had a terrific room as we had been upgraded as the serviced apartment building we had booked into was very full. What a great view....


If the weather rhyme was anything to go by, the red sky in the morning meant the shepherds would be sending us a warning....


On the suggestion of a certain Mr James, we went on a jet boat / helicopter ride with Wanaka River Journeys. The boat travels up the river at 40 – 7- kph and I am told is relatively tame compared with some others....


The boat travels in just a few inches of water and needs to maintain a certain speed to keep it from grounding on the gravel. Fed by the glacier on the top of Mount Aspiring, the waters are a terrific colour....



The boat stopped part way up the river and we met the helicopter that took Jackie and I to see the glacier. We both enjoy helicopter rides....


Wanaka River viewed from above. The blue shows the current position of the river channel, which can move when the river floods in the spring snow-melt season....


Jackie in the front seat, nearing the summit....


The glacier and the waterfall run-off....


The two of us on an adjacent summit across from mount Aspiring....


Back down at river level, we looked up at the glacier and its waterfall....


Jeez, those crows feet are getting worse....


The river trip includes a lot of information about the geology and nature in the area. We went on a guided walk at the head of the river (or at least the furthest the boat could reach)....



Another of the jet boats rushing by....


In the afternoon, the wind picked up and create a considerable amount of dust from the gravel in the river bed....


How to park a jet boat....


Later in the day, we went to see one of the many waterfalls in the South Island....


After leaving Wanaka at 3pm and driving about 250 km the day was very busy. We went to bed very tired at the end of that day!

Saturday, 9 February 2013

Driving in New Zealand

I wasn’t sure what driving in New Zealand would be like.

The roads are generally very good. They are well maintained with good surfaces. The aggregate used in the roads is much more coarse than in Europe and I am sure tyres would wear out faster here in NZ. Road rash in NZ would be much worse than in other countries.

Generally, the main roads are two-way, with no central division. Outside of the towns, the speed limit is generally 100 kph / 62 mph. Most people drive at that speed, or slightly above. From what I have seen, drivers are generally courteous. Driving in NZ is on the correct side of the road, meaning the left. Coming from the UK, this of course presents no problems at all.

The big difference though is the scenery. On the South Island, the west side generally consists of mountains and the east side is flatter, but still hilly. The roads in the mountains are terrific to drive as they twist and turn, following the landscape. We are in a car and driving is great fun, but riding a motorbike would be fantastic.

According to folklore, the sky as we prepared to leave Te Anau promised poor weather, but it never came....


We drove along the side of Lake Wakatipu on a great road under a glorious blue sky. The car we have rented is a 12 year old Nissan Silvia Varietta with a folding retractable hardtop. It is an unusual car and it is growing on me....


How about this for a great looking road....


North of Queenstown, we took Highway 6 to Wanaka, also known as the Crown Range Road. Full of steep sections, the road rises and falls in dramatic fashion and is a joy to drive. One section has a series of hairpin bends...




Overall, driving here is a great pleasure.

Friday, 8 February 2013

Stunning Milford Sound


We had been looking forward to seeing one of New Zealand’s highlights, Milford Sound.

The drive to get there from our overnight stop was very dramatic, with low clouds shielding the mountains we were driving through. At one point the clouds were very dark and created a strange light over the landscape....


Eventually the clouds dispersed and those remaining hung low over the land and roads. Driving into a cloud is a very strange feeling....




The scenery became more stunning the nearer we got to Milford Sound. The road passes through some great parts of the Southern Alps, with twists and turns that make the drive very enjoyable. It would be even better on a motorcycle. The road passes through Homer Tunnel, which has a 1:10 slope in a near-darkness. Great fun!


The fjord is 15km long inland from the Tasmin Sea and has sheers cliffs that rise 3,900 ft / 1,200 metres above the water. We travelled on the 40m long boat, Milford Mariner on a two-and-a-half hour sailing along the sound and back again.

Milford Sound is a World Heritage site, and it is easy to see why....








It was a good day to see such a great place, as this was our 15th wedding anniversary....


On the return journey inland, we saw seals....



The base of the 155 metre Stirling Falls. Trying to take a picture and keep the camera dry at the same time was impossible....


On the way back....











Milford Sound has an average annual rainfall of 268 inches. That is a staggering 22 feet or 6.8 metres, making it one of the wettest places in the world. We were blessed with a wonderful day, with blue skies and sunshine.

As we arrived back at the boat dock, we passed the second of the ever-running waterfalls....




A couple of pictures from the journey back. Who couldn’t like driving on roads like these?